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Im Riding a new sims Chaos, I havent ridden it yet( i have a few months to wait)..DAMMIT!...lol..
ok but I do need to give it a wax job, i want to do it myself. I need the know how to do it right. and sharpening edges, any tips?? i know that if I screw up on my edges, its a huge f-up, so Im really not to much in a rush to do it myself yet..
thanks Gucho
Gucho Wrote:Im Riding a new sims Chaos, I havent ridden it yet( i have a few months to wait)..DAMMIT!...lol..
ok but I do need to give it a wax job, i want to do it myself. I need the know how to do it right. and sharpening edges, any tips?? i know that if I screw up on my edges, its a huge f-up, so Im really not to much in a rush to do it myself yet..
thanks Gucho


Leave the edges be for now...some may say to detune the tip but I have found this is just a preference issue. Get a waxing /tuning kit for snowboards...Swix makes good ones...you will also need a decent iron. You can get one from the store, but I would caution to only use ont designed for ski/snowboard waxing. The clothes irons have teflon coatings (on some) and when this flakes, you can get little scratches in your base.
Swix makes a good iron that doesn't need any futzing with temp settings...plug and play.

1) preheat iron
2)tip iron verticle and melt wax by pressing it to the iron...drip drops all over the board. (one drop every three inches( but not detrimental thoush)
3) run iron moving slowly but consistently to saturate the board
4)once finished here let it sit /cool to room temp or overnight if possible.
5)scrape with the plastic scraper (the narrow side) and go with the length of the board. If the kit has one the metal scraper is for repairs...it will damage your base if you use it for anything else.
6) use the scotchbrite type pad to buff the base and remove any recalcitrant bits of wax that won't let go. (again here with the length of the board)
7) remove any drips of wax and you're good to go.

I did this on top of my A-Frame's factory wax without touching the edges at all and the thing haulls. Ridden 6times since I got it and waxed it twice. Edges still haven't been touched and it carves like no tommorrow.

J

The tools aside
check out http://www.ridehead.com, they have a section on tuning tips that walks through the process, much as above, but also with pics.
do u need an iron to melt the wax or can u use a liter or somthing. maby heating up a spoon with the liter a presing it to the wax? i just dont want to by an iron :undecided
officialy nube Wrote:do u need an iron to melt the wax or can u use a liter or somthing. maby heating up a spoon with the liter a presing it to the wax? i just dont want to by an iron :undecided

After dripping the wax, you still need to iron it into the base. You'll need an iron either way, or take it to the shop and pay someone else to do it.
steffy Wrote:After dripping the wax, you still need to iron it into the base. You'll need an iron either way, or take it to the shop and pay someone else to do it.

so you actualy iron the board? wow
yea, you need to get the wax into the pours of the base, heat is what does it.

i personally waxed my board about a week ago and thought it would be tough and i was worried about f'ing up my board, but aslong as you keep the temperature setting just hot enough to melt the wax, and not produce smoke, and dont keep the iron in the same place for a long time, you wont have to worry about hurting the base.
hotwaxed my board for the first time 'bout a week ago.. so glad i did it, but i used way too much wax, so it took awhile to scrape it down..
but now my board is crusing like a dream again...Big Grin
What is Better a hand wax or iron
I use Da Kine Wax and Scrap it off buff in with a Scotch Brite
If you don't wanna fork out for a waxing iron then just buy a travel iron as they have no holes in them.

You can get one on Ebay for around £20 ($35)

cheap ehough if you got the money to buy your own board..
If you've never actually seen a board waxed before, go to your local shop and ask them if you can watch while they do your board.
It'll be worth it in the long run - you don't want to mess up your base, and it's alot easier to do after you've seen a visual.
(Make sure the shop irons on though, some of them don't).
normal iron with holes are fine. I use the cheapest walmart iron ($5) to hot wax my board, it works just good.
It isnt hard just make sure you put ONLY a thin coat of wax, not a thick one.
I got my Iron for 99 cents at st. vincent de paul. (thrift store you know where people donate furniture and stuff like that, proceeds go to really poor people) and it works fine.
Someone posted on this site awhile back that has a link to a company that sells all kinds of stuff for tuning. On the link there's a doc that explains waxing, edge sharpening, and all that (with all the advertisements to use their stuff). Try to search for it. I'll try to find it and post it, I have it on my computer, it's a real good reference.
1) Scrape the bottom of your board clean with a putty knife.
2) Optional: Clean the base with a base cleaner (Swix).
3) Rub wax onto board.
4) Iron board (any iron works). You'll see the wax melting and "soaking" into the base. If you use a clothes iron, I suggest setting it on wool.
5) If you cleaned the base with a base cleaner, then you may need to repeat steps 3 & 4.
6) Scrape the base with the plastic putty knife.
7) (Optional) Buff with scotchbrite pad.
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